My Pachmarhi Trip

             Last Sunday I visited Pachmarhi along with my family & Surendra & his wife. Pachmarhi is just 140 kms away from Chhindwara where I have been living since last one year. Even during my training period at NADT(National Academy of Direct Taxes), there was an opportunity to visit Pachmarhi with my batchmates but I denied that opportunity. Finally, my plan to visit Pachmarhi turned into reality.          We settle in the hotel, and after having our lunch and a rest of half an hour we started for sightseeing. Firstly, we reached Pandav’s caves. These caves are not far from the bus stand. These are five ancient dwellings excavated in the sandstone rocks of moderate or rather low hill. A traditional legend attributed these caves to the Pandava’s incognito sojourn here during Mahabharat period. A History Student can resemble these caves to the stupa like remnants of Buddhist architecture. A beautiful garden enhances the beauty of these monuments which is spread at the base of these caves. It is worthwhile to mention here that that Pachmarhi derives its name from these five caves. Pachmarhi means five dwellings. Outside the main gate of garden, there were many dwarfs’ sized Suzuki bikes. My son insisted for a bike ride and I had to agree for that. He enjoyed it a lot rather more than climbing on the top of caves & admiring a great variety of flowers planted in the garden.

          Surendra & his wife came early Sunday to my home at Chhindwara from Nagpur. We were already ready & without wasting much time commenced our journey to Pachmarhi. In three hours we reached Pachmarhi via Parasia, Tamia, Matkuli and Pagara. This is the only way to visit Pachmarhi if one is coming from Nagpur. Otherwise, nearest railway station to reach Pachmarhi is Piparia in Hoshangabad which is just 50 kms from Pachmarhi. Infact, Pachmarhi also is in the territory of Hoshangabad district. Whether one is coming from Bhopal or Jabalpur, one has to come via Piparia only.

          Pachmarhi is the only hill station of M.P. as Mount Abu is for Rajasthan. This is located at a plateau surrounded by various hills in the Satpuda range. Its mean sea level height is about 1067 m. Though it was pretty hot in the May, certainly not an appropriate time to visit Pachmarhi, yet the place was green enough exquisitely verdant covered with dense Sal forest & bamboo thickets. However gentle murmured flowing water was vanished.   At the entry of Pachmarhi there is view point called Denva Darshan, standing there we can witness Denva river valley in its gigantic size. It’s awesome, but at this time the river was just in the shape of a streak of water in great depth from the place where we were looking at it. 

          Our next destination was Mahadeo. Mahadeo is about 13 Kms from Pachmarhi. After crossing a couple of hills, we reached there by our cars. Mahadeo is a holy place since generations. There is a cave and magnificent Shiva-linga. Water was percolating through the roofs of the cave while we were visiting there. The cave was cooler than any condition created by an air-conditioner. The place was also abound in dozen of monkeys. Monkeys were jumping here and there. My kid was exhilarated watching infant monkeys who were sticked to the bosom of their mothers. Just in the opposite direction of Bada Mahedeo, at distance of about 300-400 meters there is a place called Gupt Mahadeo. We reached there with help of our guide. Here is a thin cave rather a thin long hollow between two big rocks inclined at each other. Our guide suggested us to go inside the cave, where the Gupt Mahadeo is located. I was reluctant to go in but Surendra persuaded to go inside and watch the holly Gupt Mahadeo. He had been here earlier, so he was confident of entering. Surendra, his wife, my wife, my son & me entered in the cave one by one. It was pretty dark since I was the last person to enter in the cave and   other persons before me hindered the visibility completely. Anyhow, stepping about 20-30 feet we reached at Gupt Mahadeo. To my surprise one Baba was sitting there in a niche. He doled out holy ash to us which we put on our fore-head as tilak and we moved reverse to come out. This time since I was in the front position, so everything was clear at the mouth of the cave.  It was too hot and paucity of fresh air inside, I wondered how that Baba was staying inside the cave. Let him in his place for ever, I thanked the god; nothing untoward happened to any one of us. I was in fact frightened while I was in the dark cave in any incident of snake or scorpion bite. There was a great probability of dangerous creatures in the darkness of that cave. I was also frightened by an another reason that just some days ago I suffered myself by an insect bite on my lower lip which was swollen four times and it took me four- five days to recover. This happened when I was visiting one temple on my way from Jabalpur to Chhindwara.

          So we were safe again & standing outside the cave. From Gupt Mahedeo, Chauragarh is about 3.5 kms away. It was started falling dark and there was no time to climb to Chauragarh, there is a lord Shiva temple on the hill top. It was also not possible due to fact that among us were two ladies and one kid. So Chauragarh visiting idea was dropped & we moved back. On route we went to see Handikhoh. Handi khoh is deep valley having enormous depth. Its name is derived after a British officer who committed suicide jumping in this valley. It was dusk now, not possible for us to reach at Dhoopgarh to watch sunset. Apart from this our cars were not able to climb on such height so our guide took us to Rajendragiri. We reached there soon but it was cloudy atmosphere and there was no chance to visualize sunset. It was quite dark now & no sense of visiting the park located there. We had our tea & snacks here & started back to our hotel.

          During our return journey, our guide went to forest department to get permission for visiting Dhoopgarh early in the morning & hiring Gypsies. At 9.00 pm we went to Amaltas, M.P. tourism restaurant for our dinner. The food was good but services were poor & lethargic. Probably, this is the special characteristic of M.P. tourism hotels. I faced the similar situation once eating at MP tourism hotels at Piparia during my return journey from Bhopal to Chhindwara.

          Our Guide asked us to be ready before 4.30 AM early in the morning assuring that he will be there along with a gypsy. So next morning all of us were ready to go to Dhoopgharh for watching sunrise, despite the challenge of awakening my son at this much early in the morning. 

          All of us were outside the hotel but neither the gypsy nor our guide was there. We waited for long, and then we decided to go back to beds since the darkness was disappeared completely & we were unable to contact our guide on mobile as well.

          After 9.00 AM our guide came to hotel. We complained him about his Non-arrival. He apologized for not coming due to some circumstances.

          After taking our breakfast we started for Bee-fall. Bee- all is one of the famous water falls in Pachmarhi. It cascades from a height of about 150 feet. It is said while bathing down below; the falling drops of mineral water evoke a feeling of gentle interaction with honeybees’ .Hence the name attributed as Bee-fall. The distance from top to the fall is not more than 400 meters. One has to walk on foot this much distance to reach here amidst curvaceous patches mostly having cemented steps. Surendra said to us that this is located at great depth & it is very difficult to step down to the Bee-fall. But it is nothing in comparison to Chhota Mahedeo water fall located 1.5 kms from Tamia and this all 1.5 kms is to be covered on foot amid the dangerous valley. This is in fact more dangerous and romantic than Bee-fall in my opinion. Although, the water fall at Tamia is much smaller than Bee fall. I would like to suggest readers to visit Tamia and Patalkot located about 60-70 kms from Chhindwara and the similar is the distance from Pipariya on Nagpur route.

          Nonetheless, we enjoyed our sojourn to Bee fall. Photographs were, no doubt, taken. I also witnessed a beautiful bright blue bird in the boulders that was searching insects. I started capturing the same in my camera Surendra stopped me saying that you should leave that creature now and take snaps of love- birds standing behind you; of course, he was hinting himself and his wife.

          We enjoyed there a lot. While we were climbing back we saw long Dhaman (a species of snake) just ahead of us crossing the path. My son was very curious of watching snakes, live before his eyes. He said to me –“Papaji, I have seen a snake first time apart from watching it on TV and in pictures.” Any way, it was a fantastic experience visiting the Bee-fall.

          Next, we reached Reechgarh caves. This place gives an appearance of an amphitheater surrounded by hills from three sides having three entrance gates. We entered from one side and came out from the other side of a cave.

          The sun was now rapidly approaching towards the zenith & it was scorching heat. Surendra was now rather reluctant to go to Dhoopgarh but finally we decided to go there also. Enjoying the picturesque valleys we reach at Dhoopgarh. On the way we also stayed for a few minutes on the echo point to experience the presence of the one’s echo coming back refracting from the here by hills.

          Having an elevation of 1352 in above MSL, Dhoopgarh is the highest peak of Satpura distinguishing itself as an exquisite formation due to its unique steep scarps and cliffs. The story behind its nomenclature is that during the day time it receives maximum of the sunlight availing by the sun.

          The place is famous for its views of extremely beautiful sunset as well as sun rises. But we were not fortunate enough to see the sunrise since the guide could not appear in time and we were standing there at exactly noon time. Yet, it was great experience to watch the surrounding hills and the lush green valley beneath. Dhoopgarh is also said to be vigilance place of korku tribal warriors. A couple of tribal settlements were also visible in foresight. A tiny museum is also there at the Dhoopgarh. Indian Railways installed a 70 meters high micrometer tower at sunset point at Dhoopgarh which enables them to communicate directly between Delhi, Jabalpur & Mumbai etc. Another thing here which attracts the visitors is the occurrence of layers of stratified pebbles within the rocks of the hills which indicates that the area was once submerged under water for millenniums & has undergone change subsequently. The surface texture of the rocks is also corroborating evidence supporting this fact.

          It was extremely hot now; my son was insisting us incessantly to move back. So we came back to hotel. On route we had our lunch at Nandan. After taking a rest and afternoon nap, we started our return journey to Chhindwara. The trip was fantastic despite accomplishing in scorching summer. We will cherish the memory for ever particular this was my son Abhimanyu’s first hill station visit. He was extremely elated with this excursion.  [08-09 may 2011]
  

-         Ajit Pal Singh Daia